Saturday, September 25, 2010
Friday, September 17, 2010
Melborune
Locked up in Old Melbourne Goal
Pretending to be Ned Kelly
Victoria markets - kransky
Federation square - street performer
kids to flag making workshop
art gallery
ned kelly exhibition
old melbourne goal
walked back down lygon st - chocolate shop, lolly shop and cake shop to die for.
rock climbing out for dinner.
Ballarat
Candle making
Panning for gold
being arrested by a red coat
Panning for gold
being arrested by a red coat
Bells Beach (doesn't look too enticing to me).
My camera is having heart failure, needing to have a shock before each picture.
followed gt ocean rd then to Bells beach then Ballarat - not reaching double figures - to Sovereign hill for day then back for night show, the Flagstaff hill show had cruelled it all though still quite good.
Lorne
Blown away at top of light house
Revisited the Great Ocean Road but this time being chased by wind and rain squalls pushing the van around as well. Gordon was the only one brave enough to revisit London Bridge, the fact that the sea foam was being whipped several hundred metres up onto the road was enough to suggest to the rest of us it would be horrible at the cliff face. Gordon's absence for less than 5 minutes only confirmed our thoughts. Pushed on with The Great Ocean Road becoming more of a goat track with each passing km, rock falls, land slips and fallen trees - with even whole patches having slipped down onto the road, soil, rocks and all. Knew it was horrendous when even the cows packed together trying to get protection from a wire fence.
Climbing the ranges into the Otways we passed through a dramatic change in vegetation from hard spiky ground hugging scramble to lush tall tropical forest. Making our way back down to the coast when we came to a screaming halt at a police blockade, behind about 50 other vehicles. Apparently a milk truck had literally slipped down the slope the night before and they were trying to retrieve it, 2 giant cranes usually associated with high rise construction pulling this very battered tank and its truck which was rather shorter than it should have been. Luckily less than an hour's delay and we were back on the road with Gordon attempting to check out the surf whilst negotiate the "goat track". Some absolutely cracking surf but well over 20 foot swell.
Decided to brave the Lighthouse in the Otways hanging onto Morgan whenever near the cliff once again, Jack braving the 104 kmh winds to look down at the smashing surf. Don't know how people lived there all year round. Left the visitors centre about the local Koala colony to be advised “just look at the trees … there’s too many of them … they are killing all the trees”. And they are – driving back out of the National Park Jack was the first to spot one right at the side of the road just sitting there, managed to spot at least 20 or more in the next 2km just along the road side with some quite low, others hanging on with all their might at the top of the trees and still more with their bottoms hanging just above the roof of the cars over the road.
The night was coming in so made our way to Lorne for the night, quite a pleasant smallish seaside town with not a lot happening.
Climbing the ranges into the Otways we passed through a dramatic change in vegetation from hard spiky ground hugging scramble to lush tall tropical forest. Making our way back down to the coast when we came to a screaming halt at a police blockade, behind about 50 other vehicles. Apparently a milk truck had literally slipped down the slope the night before and they were trying to retrieve it, 2 giant cranes usually associated with high rise construction pulling this very battered tank and its truck which was rather shorter than it should have been. Luckily less than an hour's delay and we were back on the road with Gordon attempting to check out the surf whilst negotiate the "goat track". Some absolutely cracking surf but well over 20 foot swell.
Decided to brave the Lighthouse in the Otways hanging onto Morgan whenever near the cliff once again, Jack braving the 104 kmh winds to look down at the smashing surf. Don't know how people lived there all year round. Left the visitors centre about the local Koala colony to be advised “just look at the trees … there’s too many of them … they are killing all the trees”. And they are – driving back out of the National Park Jack was the first to spot one right at the side of the road just sitting there, managed to spot at least 20 or more in the next 2km just along the road side with some quite low, others hanging on with all their might at the top of the trees and still more with their bottoms hanging just above the roof of the cars over the road.
The night was coming in so made our way to Lorne for the night, quite a pleasant smallish seaside town with not a lot happening.
Port Fairy
best shot of 12 Apostles I could get hanging through the wire balanced on one leg
Flying my airfix through the bushwalks mum forced me on
Set up base in Port Fairy a seaside town lost in time that would slot right into the Cornish Coast on yet another miserable day. Went for a bit of a drive around and came across one of the parks we thought about booking into with van sites stepping out on to the beach. Pleased we had not ended up here, everything was locked down tight to stop it being blown off the face of the earth, not a good time for van parks with others closed as their sites were half a meter under water. Drove around the corner and the kids were suddenly in a double bind – we could stay in the park where it will be horrible just to be around the corner from this “awesome, sic, cool (and a whole lot of other elated kid words)” slippery dip that went down the side of a sand dune spent the rest of the afternoon with the kids trying different methods to gain maximum speed. Cardboard went OK but one of the kids there had plastic signs which he was kindly sharing, Jack became airborne at the end of the slide with this, Morgie throwing her feet out as brakes. Had to call halt to this to go to Flagstaff Hill – the local recreated historical town – for the evening show about the wrecking of the Loch Ard. Yet another tourist thing we had booked into with the possibility of it being dodgy but this turned out to be the best presentation of historical material we have seen yet with laser light shows and generated lashing rain competing with the real thing.
The next morning bloomed with patches of sun so we decided to take the opportunity to explore The Great Ocean Road. Had picked up some vouchers for freebies and discounts along the way and one the kids was hanging for was the milkshake at Ayrford – the local processing plant for surrounding dairies. Brought back memories of the Oak factory at Hexham which was the treat on northbound trips when I was a kid
Made our way through Peterborough – the start of the attractions pausing at every possible chance to explore and not being disappointed. The Grotto was putting on a spectacular display filling the whole of the opening with wash every 5 or so minutes (this is possibly where my camera took too much punishment with sea spray causing a mist) and all the others were awesome enough that the hype I had spun to the kids didn’t seem too lame – that is till we reached the 12 Apostles. Last time I was here you literally walked along the cliff face following the coast line at each feature, all the other stops had formed pathways and boardwalks but you still got really good access to see everything. The 12 Apostles had been so controlled that y0u could not get a decent view. There was a car park on the northern side of the road, a tunnel under the road formed walkways out to viewing platforms (several of which were closed) and high wire surrounding the furthest viewing platform where you had some chance of looking at all the Apostles that remained. This was beyond disappointing so we spent very little time here and headed back to check out the Arch and Loch Ard Gorge where we could at least appreciate the splendor.
Caught a warming snack at Peterborough on the way home, huddling on the bay watching rather crazy kids jumping off the pier and getting washed into shore – don’t really believe they make wetsuits thick enough to entice me.
Back to the dodgy weather saw us braving a day visit to Flagstaff hill where we dodged around the buildings between rain showers with the kids filling in information booklets on the way in the hope of the suggested lollypop.
Off to the toy shop as Jack had run out of Air fix models to build, his current obsession now that both his parents and the weather have put a limit to spear making (how many can you carry on the roof of the car), I have had a crash course in Air fix 101 repairs as they are quite difficult to pack safely before finding another park with several gigantic slides of differing formations – this seems to be a strong theme of local parks and one that would not be approved in NSW.
Our last day in Port Fairy proved to be yet again overcast so decided on a slow day exploring the town and visiting the local Antique and Music store (just one store) Gordon had spied. Managed a stroll around Griffith Island with its lighthouse, Shearwater nesting colony, giant kelp beds (with the strands often as tall as the kids) and collapsing sand dunes before strolling through town seeking out a dinner venue. The influence of Melbourne fashion is very evident with many specialty clothing shops mixed in with many shops selling tourist trade “trinkets”. The Antique / Music shop proved unique with sheet music for instruments I had never heard of and others I never dreamt would have music written for them (Jaw harp) shoved in amongst collections of basically very expensive junk. Our choice of dinner venue (one of the 5 local pubs) though did prove a good one.
Set up base in Port Fairy a seaside town lost in time that would slot right into the Cornish Coast on yet another miserable day. Went for a bit of a drive around and came across one of the parks we thought about booking into with van sites stepping out on to the beach. Pleased we had not ended up here, everything was locked down tight to stop it being blown off the face of the earth, not a good time for van parks with others closed as their sites were half a meter under water. Drove around the corner and the kids were suddenly in a double bind – we could stay in the park where it will be horrible just to be around the corner from this “awesome, sic, cool (and a whole lot of other elated kid words)” slippery dip that went down the side of a sand dune spent the rest of the afternoon with the kids trying different methods to gain maximum speed. Cardboard went OK but one of the kids there had plastic signs which he was kindly sharing, Jack became airborne at the end of the slide with this, Morgie throwing her feet out as brakes. Had to call halt to this to go to Flagstaff Hill – the local recreated historical town – for the evening show about the wrecking of the Loch Ard. Yet another tourist thing we had booked into with the possibility of it being dodgy but this turned out to be the best presentation of historical material we have seen yet with laser light shows and generated lashing rain competing with the real thing.
The next morning bloomed with patches of sun so we decided to take the opportunity to explore The Great Ocean Road. Had picked up some vouchers for freebies and discounts along the way and one the kids was hanging for was the milkshake at Ayrford – the local processing plant for surrounding dairies. Brought back memories of the Oak factory at Hexham which was the treat on northbound trips when I was a kid
Made our way through Peterborough – the start of the attractions pausing at every possible chance to explore and not being disappointed. The Grotto was putting on a spectacular display filling the whole of the opening with wash every 5 or so minutes (this is possibly where my camera took too much punishment with sea spray causing a mist) and all the others were awesome enough that the hype I had spun to the kids didn’t seem too lame – that is till we reached the 12 Apostles. Last time I was here you literally walked along the cliff face following the coast line at each feature, all the other stops had formed pathways and boardwalks but you still got really good access to see everything. The 12 Apostles had been so controlled that y0u could not get a decent view. There was a car park on the northern side of the road, a tunnel under the road formed walkways out to viewing platforms (several of which were closed) and high wire surrounding the furthest viewing platform where you had some chance of looking at all the Apostles that remained. This was beyond disappointing so we spent very little time here and headed back to check out the Arch and Loch Ard Gorge where we could at least appreciate the splendor.
Caught a warming snack at Peterborough on the way home, huddling on the bay watching rather crazy kids jumping off the pier and getting washed into shore – don’t really believe they make wetsuits thick enough to entice me.
Back to the dodgy weather saw us braving a day visit to Flagstaff hill where we dodged around the buildings between rain showers with the kids filling in information booklets on the way in the hope of the suggested lollypop.
Off to the toy shop as Jack had run out of Air fix models to build, his current obsession now that both his parents and the weather have put a limit to spear making (how many can you carry on the roof of the car), I have had a crash course in Air fix 101 repairs as they are quite difficult to pack safely before finding another park with several gigantic slides of differing formations – this seems to be a strong theme of local parks and one that would not be approved in NSW.
Our last day in Port Fairy proved to be yet again overcast so decided on a slow day exploring the town and visiting the local Antique and Music store (just one store) Gordon had spied. Managed a stroll around Griffith Island with its lighthouse, Shearwater nesting colony, giant kelp beds (with the strands often as tall as the kids) and collapsing sand dunes before strolling through town seeking out a dinner venue. The influence of Melbourne fashion is very evident with many specialty clothing shops mixed in with many shops selling tourist trade “trinkets”. The Antique / Music shop proved unique with sheet music for instruments I had never heard of and others I never dreamt would have music written for them (Jaw harp) shoved in amongst collections of basically very expensive junk. Our choice of dinner venue (one of the 5 local pubs) though did prove a good one.
The super slide
Monday, September 13, 2010
Mt Gambier
Blue lakeVisited yet another wind farm on the way over to Mt Gambier - it has almost become a joke where we trip off to the wind farms just to exasperate Jack - though Gordon does truly find them amazing - the mere mention of the word will bring sighs and groans from the kids. This was the largest in the southern hemisphere in the paddocks right on the road side, giving you some perspective on how massive the individual structure is, bit freaky driving along and having these giant blade shadows flick over your car.
Mt Gambier is the home to a complex of craters which are old volcanoes now plugged up, several filled with water, the largest of which holds the local water supply and reportedly changes colour due to the killing off in the warmer months of some algae bubbling up from the aquifer which feeds it.
Hard to appreciate its enormity and splendour when icy winds are being driven at you. Quick tour of the 6 craters before popping down to the wildlife park which thankfully was protected in the bottom of a dry crater, in more ways than one. The whole park was surrounded by 3 metre electrified fence - solar powered none the less. Wandered through paddocks of Kangaroos lolling in the sun and chased long neck turtles across the boardwalk. Jack was fascinated by the electric fence but couldn't quite get up the nerve to touch it and thankfully didn't take up his sister's challenge of whizzing on it.
Let Jack burn off some un-electrified energy in the adjacent playground before retreating to the local ship wreck display, which annoyingly had the ship "closed for renovation". Saw a sobering commentary on the demise of the local aboriginal community with excerpts presented from the diaries of a local missionary of the early 1800s, videos of dives into the local craters which are riddled with caves and fossil display from the local limestone quarry. Quite interesting but very frustrating that main advertised attraction not available.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
Millicent
Back on the mainland with some sunshine so stopped at Morgan’s beach for an hour for some lunch and the kids to play on the beach once again. Cheese and bickies on the beach whilst the kids wore off heaps of energy climbing massive sand dunes and tumbling down. Packing up to leave when Morgie came running up saying her mouth was burning, but sure she hadn’t swallowed anything, we had all eaten the same as her so couldn’t work it out. Out to check out the wind farm – Gordon is fascinated by them but this turned into a very brief inspection as Morgie became progressively more distressed, though thankfully no breathing difficulties. Panadol and lignocaine spray gave no relief so progressively emptied our ice box for her to suck during the 50 km north to the nearest doctor. Nil insight given here other than give panadol as needed and there seemed to be nothing that was going to give further problems other than possibly a head cold threatening.
Had hoped to make Mt Gambier but as with all doctors they were running behind so stayed in Wellington, a sneeze of a town on the mouth of the Murray. Quick pack up in the morning in an attempt to beat the rain then to the ferry to cross the river before heading south, just making it before it stopped for an hour’s tea break (no kidding). Headed down the coast trying to beat the wind and rain, stopping in Kingston SE for lunch which proved we had not managed to be ahead of the elements. Quick look around the sundials which proved ineffective today though quite an ingenious with one where you stood in a particular spot depending on time of year, you could use your own shadow to tell the time. Jack got to have a couple of quick spins around the skate park before Morgie used a puddle to slow her down by laying in it.
Headed off down the coast again finding none of the windblown rain squalled bays too appealing, (though I’m sure they are quite beautiful in better weather) to call a stop in Millicent, a fair size town about 50 km north of Mt Gambier where we found a van park with brand new cabins which only blew our budget by a little and were twice as big as any we had stayed in previously. Planning to use this as a base for a few days to save on wet pack up. Very thankful for this when it started bucketing and blowing again at near 100km/h. Prior to this the kids had managed to fill an hour on the trampoline and sandpit feeling quite at home.
The kids caught the day's rain free hour at the park in the morning, an immense complex sponsored by Kimberley Clarke but boasting an excellent skate park, incredible playground with little areas for all ages including a work out area for adults with much of the equipment you would find in a gym whilst I fought with bureaucracy, X@##@** banks.
Decided to check out the local museum during the next deluge and was very pleasantly surprised, a very big steam train display which the kids spent quite a time playing "Bond ...James Bond....."on, and restored horse drawn carriage collection next to yet another ship wreck display (everyone has claimed a shipwreck for themselves). Throw in a literal maze of local area historical paraphernalia with a small tribute to the indigenous community and every old farm machinery that they could round up from the back shed of every local farm and the boys managed to be very entertained for the rest of the day with just a brief intermission for lunch. An incredibly large and well maintained display for such a small town.
Had hoped to make Mt Gambier but as with all doctors they were running behind so stayed in Wellington, a sneeze of a town on the mouth of the Murray. Quick pack up in the morning in an attempt to beat the rain then to the ferry to cross the river before heading south, just making it before it stopped for an hour’s tea break (no kidding). Headed down the coast trying to beat the wind and rain, stopping in Kingston SE for lunch which proved we had not managed to be ahead of the elements. Quick look around the sundials which proved ineffective today though quite an ingenious with one where you stood in a particular spot depending on time of year, you could use your own shadow to tell the time. Jack got to have a couple of quick spins around the skate park before Morgie used a puddle to slow her down by laying in it.
Headed off down the coast again finding none of the windblown rain squalled bays too appealing, (though I’m sure they are quite beautiful in better weather) to call a stop in Millicent, a fair size town about 50 km north of Mt Gambier where we found a van park with brand new cabins which only blew our budget by a little and were twice as big as any we had stayed in previously. Planning to use this as a base for a few days to save on wet pack up. Very thankful for this when it started bucketing and blowing again at near 100km/h. Prior to this the kids had managed to fill an hour on the trampoline and sandpit feeling quite at home.
The kids caught the day's rain free hour at the park in the morning, an immense complex sponsored by Kimberley Clarke but boasting an excellent skate park, incredible playground with little areas for all ages including a work out area for adults with much of the equipment you would find in a gym whilst I fought with bureaucracy, X@##@** banks.
Decided to check out the local museum during the next deluge and was very pleasantly surprised, a very big steam train display which the kids spent quite a time playing "Bond ...James Bond....."on, and restored horse drawn carriage collection next to yet another ship wreck display (everyone has claimed a shipwreck for themselves). Throw in a literal maze of local area historical paraphernalia with a small tribute to the indigenous community and every old farm machinery that they could round up from the back shed of every local farm and the boys managed to be very entertained for the rest of the day with just a brief intermission for lunch. An incredibly large and well maintained display for such a small town.
Squeezed half an hour of rain free time in in the afternoon during which we explored the Lake McIntyre which is the old quarry turned into a bird sanctuary - the only birds brave enough to show themselves were the seagulls, but a great place to get in a bit of a stroll and relieve the cabin fever.
The park we were staying in had a beautiful brazier that Jack had been keen to light since our arrival, made an attempt to have dinner around the fire in memory of the Tanamai but even this came to a screaming halt with a sudden shower dousing the fire and us.
Spent the night hoping the van wasn't being blown off the cliff during yet another onslaught from above. It is now three weeks that we have been plagued by rain.
Kangaroo Island
Travelled down with a night's stop over at Cape Jervis cottages so we could be on the morning ferry. Very lush grazing land abutting the beaches, lots of sheep and cattle, and acres of crops planted. Kids had a ball at the accommodation playing with their dogs, checking the chooks and feeding a week old lamb. Went for a drive around and found Morgan's beach so despite the horrid weather went down on it to get some photos, and for the kids to climb some giant wet sand dunes.
Woke to thankfully still morning, the only complication being having to reverse the van on with precision backing, they jam them in on the boat tighter than sardines. A pleasant crossing, without the advertised dolphins, landed us in Penneshaw. Quick trip over to Kingscote where we were staying. After reports of torrential rain and howling winds we upgraded our accommodation to a cabin so quickly unpacked and dried the van before setting off to explore Kingscote. This was a relatively quick experience but managed to identify where the Penguin tour went from. Very surprised at the items stocked. The hardware store seemed to double as kitchenware, electrical, lighting and linen store, with Le Cruiset (sorry Glenn didn’t grab you any), Rodd and Sheridan being the standard of items.
Back for early dinner before braving the Penguin tour – had been unable to book so half expected it to be closed. Turned out to be about 15 silly people, managed to see penguins roosting, and coming in from sea with the rain holding off though not the cold. Morgie piling on 3 beanies and 2 heavy jackets and still feeling the cold. Back at the centre there were several aquariums with local fish and sea life in it, part of the experience was a tour and feeding of the fish in the tanks. Jack really took to this especially the tank with all the local poisonous fish turning our 1 ½ tour into 2 ½ at which point I called time as both Jack and the tour guide would have discussed the tanks all night. Gordon just wanted to know if the giant lobsters in the tanks were available for dinner.
The next morning brought all the horrendous weather as promised so went back to sleep before dragging ourselves off to do some domestics such as washing and groceries. The local library proved a boon with internet access, board games and heaps of books so the kids and Gordon holed up here for the day with brief interludes to the local café for hot chocolates and muffins.
Rugged up and dragged the wet weather gear out for the next day with a few breaks in the rain promised but no let up in the wind. Headed off to Seal Bay for the Lion seals, despite the horrendous weather found it totally amazing with the seals often laying on the path we were walking on or huddling in the bushes nearby. Spent a while huddling together on the beach to watch them playing in the waves with Jack trying to bet some insider information on body surfing, they were phenomenal at it. Got back to the information centre as another deluge set in. The guide recommended the cave tour as a dry option for the day so set off to Kelly Hill caves. Spotted a café along the way so had to stop for a coffee and hot chocolate just to thaw out a little. Turned out to be a gallery as well of mainly local artists with lots of rustic craft works including a corregated iron kangaroo riding a scooter and tricycle, possums handing from the roof and birds spotted about the place. Jack was most taken by a gong taller than himself, especially since he was able to bang it.
Booked into the tour at Kelly Hills caves, Jack did a quick trip back to the car to grab his gloves and had just returned when an enormous thud resounded. A giant sugar gum had fallen, root ball and all across the path that Jack had just walked up, missing vehicles by a few metres, ours included The earth was so sodden it just couldn’t hold the tree any longer, this was something we were to experience many more times on the island but thankfully not at this close a range. The caves were quite small compared to Wombeyan but the features more spectacular partly due to their almost translucent nature – there has been a policy of minimal impact since the system opened.
Came out of the caves to a break in the rain once again so headed ff to the south west of the island and Flinders Chase National Park. Here the feature is Remarkable rocks which is a set of rocks on a scrubby cliff that have been beaten by the wind and sea till there are holes literally through the middle of them and worn away to look like giant beaks of some prehistoric creature. The wind was howling to such an extent that we literally had to hang on to Morgan to prevent her from being blown off. Only managed to inspect the lee side of the rocks as even Gordon was blown around and the little bit of rain was hitting you with such force it felt like you were being attacked by a million tiny needles at once. A small hop from here took us to Admiral’s arch which is home to the New Zealand fur seal colony with board walks huddled down in the rocks and therefore quite sheltered. The winds were whipping away most of the horrendous smell so we spent quite a time watching them laze on the rocks and play in the waves. Quite amazingly surfing on and off a rock shelf with waves smashing on it and surging off at immense speed. A quick stop at the visitors centre and some roadside time perusing of Cape Barron geese and their chicks saw us arriving in Kingscote for dinner. There is an immense amount of wildlife on the island much of it appearing as road kill. There are tour busses which pick up people from the morning ferry and drop back on the evening and scream round the island with no care for other drivers or the local wild life slowing for nothing. Had been recommended the local Caltex as the place to go for fish and chips so headed off to give it a go. It certainly turned out to be the place locals went, though would recommend take away and sitting by the beach in better weather. Absolutely brilliant food pity about the petrol bowser outlook.
Father’s day saw a drop in the winds so after a leisurely pancake breakfast and the ritual pounding of Gordon we set off for the furthest north west point of the island – Cape Border. All the main roads had water over them, many above half a metre, but with assistance from the locals (one guy even turned round and went through before us to ensure we missed the washed away bit of road) we managed to make a slow way to the light house. Arrived in time for the 11.30 tour which we took but then stayed for the 12.30 as this is when they set off the cannons. The guide was a font on knowledge but not very effective in getting this across to people. There was a group of 4 guys who had come across for hiking and we on the tour, the kids and one of their members all were to play a part in setting off the cannon. Mr. Tour Guide readied the blast and gave instructions to the 3 involved and walked away. Next thing we all jump 20 feet – the guide included, as the blast sounded, no-one got to see it let alone take a photo. Apparently all 3 of the blasters had miss heard his instructions. Mr. Tour Guide was not impressed and very huffily packed up his little box and stormed off, it was all we could do to stop from rolling about in laughter which only led to Mr. Tour Guide losing it even more and declaring “I suppose I have to finish the tour”. The kids did get a certificate which funnily enough said they performed satisfactorily.
This was enough of the light house for us so we made our way back towards home. Driving past the Gallery again Gordon decided he really did need the possum and as it was father’s day (we all liked it too) let him pop in to purchase it and for Jack to practice his Gong skills one last time. A brief lull in the showers again occurred as we were passing Seal Bay so we popped in to see how the sea lions were fairing. With less wind more were out in the open meaning we had to creep past them whilst they sunned themselves on the boardwalk. Fitted in the self guided tour again before close where we managed to spy several really small pups and a Baleen Whale skeleton that had been dragged up into the sand dunes. This spot has definitely been our favourite. Home to make an attempt at curry for dinner as father’s day treat – the cuisine on Kangaroo Island did not extend this far.
Our last day on the island saw the weather clear a bit more in the morning so headed off to sample some of the local produce, bummed out on the Lavender farm the night before – not open at the moment – seems there is KI time and real time so not sure what we would get to see. Out to the Honey farm where there was a hive behind glass and quite a good display of the equipment and very yummy homemade honey ice-cream which we all enjoyed. Got another critter display on the way out of the farm with an echidna wandering across the road, spend half an hour following him around much to his discust. The Eucalyptus distillery didn’t prove so fruitful – you can do a self guided tour which we will charge you $30 for but nothing is running as it is our off season, declined on the tour but kids enjoyed the orphan joeys – one sleeping in the dog basket and another only a few weeks huddled in a pouch worn by a staff member.
Had been told about a cool beach walk out at Stokes bay where you have to scramble through cracks in fallen rocks to get through to the beach so headed out for a look. The important thing they forgot to tell us is that access is tide dependant. Crawled through as far as we could, all agree that in summer it would be a spectacular place. Climbed the cliff to see if we could get down but only the kids were willing to take the scramble which they did playing on the beach whilst Gordon and I chilled up top.
Our last visit on the Island was to the Sheep dairy quite an experience watching the sheep get milked. The kids were stoked getting to see a whole shed of lambs, with one being brought out for them to pat. They take the lamb from the mother and raise them in a shed as sheep only produce milk for a few months after having a lamb so they are either being milked, out with the rams or pregnant – this goes on for until they are about 12 – not much of a life if you ask me. Had another KI time experience for dinner when we went to go to a place that advertised open every day but Xmas to find it closed, this seemed to be the state of play for most places on KI monday nights, but did manage to find a pizza joint open.
Tried for our last critter experience and went possum spotting that night, drove to several spots that we thought would hold potential to no avail but after giving up found one wandering down the middle of the road much to our delight but his dismay, didn't find any of his friends and he skittled off very quickly.
Despite the horrendous weather we really enjoyed what the island had to offer and very pleased when our trip off occurred in calm seas.
Woke to thankfully still morning, the only complication being having to reverse the van on with precision backing, they jam them in on the boat tighter than sardines. A pleasant crossing, without the advertised dolphins, landed us in Penneshaw. Quick trip over to Kingscote where we were staying. After reports of torrential rain and howling winds we upgraded our accommodation to a cabin so quickly unpacked and dried the van before setting off to explore Kingscote. This was a relatively quick experience but managed to identify where the Penguin tour went from. Very surprised at the items stocked. The hardware store seemed to double as kitchenware, electrical, lighting and linen store, with Le Cruiset (sorry Glenn didn’t grab you any), Rodd and Sheridan being the standard of items.
Back for early dinner before braving the Penguin tour – had been unable to book so half expected it to be closed. Turned out to be about 15 silly people, managed to see penguins roosting, and coming in from sea with the rain holding off though not the cold. Morgie piling on 3 beanies and 2 heavy jackets and still feeling the cold. Back at the centre there were several aquariums with local fish and sea life in it, part of the experience was a tour and feeding of the fish in the tanks. Jack really took to this especially the tank with all the local poisonous fish turning our 1 ½ tour into 2 ½ at which point I called time as both Jack and the tour guide would have discussed the tanks all night. Gordon just wanted to know if the giant lobsters in the tanks were available for dinner.
The next morning brought all the horrendous weather as promised so went back to sleep before dragging ourselves off to do some domestics such as washing and groceries. The local library proved a boon with internet access, board games and heaps of books so the kids and Gordon holed up here for the day with brief interludes to the local café for hot chocolates and muffins.
Rugged up and dragged the wet weather gear out for the next day with a few breaks in the rain promised but no let up in the wind. Headed off to Seal Bay for the Lion seals, despite the horrendous weather found it totally amazing with the seals often laying on the path we were walking on or huddling in the bushes nearby. Spent a while huddling together on the beach to watch them playing in the waves with Jack trying to bet some insider information on body surfing, they were phenomenal at it. Got back to the information centre as another deluge set in. The guide recommended the cave tour as a dry option for the day so set off to Kelly Hill caves. Spotted a café along the way so had to stop for a coffee and hot chocolate just to thaw out a little. Turned out to be a gallery as well of mainly local artists with lots of rustic craft works including a corregated iron kangaroo riding a scooter and tricycle, possums handing from the roof and birds spotted about the place. Jack was most taken by a gong taller than himself, especially since he was able to bang it.
Booked into the tour at Kelly Hills caves, Jack did a quick trip back to the car to grab his gloves and had just returned when an enormous thud resounded. A giant sugar gum had fallen, root ball and all across the path that Jack had just walked up, missing vehicles by a few metres, ours included The earth was so sodden it just couldn’t hold the tree any longer, this was something we were to experience many more times on the island but thankfully not at this close a range. The caves were quite small compared to Wombeyan but the features more spectacular partly due to their almost translucent nature – there has been a policy of minimal impact since the system opened.
Came out of the caves to a break in the rain once again so headed ff to the south west of the island and Flinders Chase National Park. Here the feature is Remarkable rocks which is a set of rocks on a scrubby cliff that have been beaten by the wind and sea till there are holes literally through the middle of them and worn away to look like giant beaks of some prehistoric creature. The wind was howling to such an extent that we literally had to hang on to Morgan to prevent her from being blown off. Only managed to inspect the lee side of the rocks as even Gordon was blown around and the little bit of rain was hitting you with such force it felt like you were being attacked by a million tiny needles at once. A small hop from here took us to Admiral’s arch which is home to the New Zealand fur seal colony with board walks huddled down in the rocks and therefore quite sheltered. The winds were whipping away most of the horrendous smell so we spent quite a time watching them laze on the rocks and play in the waves. Quite amazingly surfing on and off a rock shelf with waves smashing on it and surging off at immense speed. A quick stop at the visitors centre and some roadside time perusing of Cape Barron geese and their chicks saw us arriving in Kingscote for dinner. There is an immense amount of wildlife on the island much of it appearing as road kill. There are tour busses which pick up people from the morning ferry and drop back on the evening and scream round the island with no care for other drivers or the local wild life slowing for nothing. Had been recommended the local Caltex as the place to go for fish and chips so headed off to give it a go. It certainly turned out to be the place locals went, though would recommend take away and sitting by the beach in better weather. Absolutely brilliant food pity about the petrol bowser outlook.
Father’s day saw a drop in the winds so after a leisurely pancake breakfast and the ritual pounding of Gordon we set off for the furthest north west point of the island – Cape Border. All the main roads had water over them, many above half a metre, but with assistance from the locals (one guy even turned round and went through before us to ensure we missed the washed away bit of road) we managed to make a slow way to the light house. Arrived in time for the 11.30 tour which we took but then stayed for the 12.30 as this is when they set off the cannons. The guide was a font on knowledge but not very effective in getting this across to people. There was a group of 4 guys who had come across for hiking and we on the tour, the kids and one of their members all were to play a part in setting off the cannon. Mr. Tour Guide readied the blast and gave instructions to the 3 involved and walked away. Next thing we all jump 20 feet – the guide included, as the blast sounded, no-one got to see it let alone take a photo. Apparently all 3 of the blasters had miss heard his instructions. Mr. Tour Guide was not impressed and very huffily packed up his little box and stormed off, it was all we could do to stop from rolling about in laughter which only led to Mr. Tour Guide losing it even more and declaring “I suppose I have to finish the tour”. The kids did get a certificate which funnily enough said they performed satisfactorily.
This was enough of the light house for us so we made our way back towards home. Driving past the Gallery again Gordon decided he really did need the possum and as it was father’s day (we all liked it too) let him pop in to purchase it and for Jack to practice his Gong skills one last time. A brief lull in the showers again occurred as we were passing Seal Bay so we popped in to see how the sea lions were fairing. With less wind more were out in the open meaning we had to creep past them whilst they sunned themselves on the boardwalk. Fitted in the self guided tour again before close where we managed to spy several really small pups and a Baleen Whale skeleton that had been dragged up into the sand dunes. This spot has definitely been our favourite. Home to make an attempt at curry for dinner as father’s day treat – the cuisine on Kangaroo Island did not extend this far.
Our last day on the island saw the weather clear a bit more in the morning so headed off to sample some of the local produce, bummed out on the Lavender farm the night before – not open at the moment – seems there is KI time and real time so not sure what we would get to see. Out to the Honey farm where there was a hive behind glass and quite a good display of the equipment and very yummy homemade honey ice-cream which we all enjoyed. Got another critter display on the way out of the farm with an echidna wandering across the road, spend half an hour following him around much to his discust. The Eucalyptus distillery didn’t prove so fruitful – you can do a self guided tour which we will charge you $30 for but nothing is running as it is our off season, declined on the tour but kids enjoyed the orphan joeys – one sleeping in the dog basket and another only a few weeks huddled in a pouch worn by a staff member.
Had been told about a cool beach walk out at Stokes bay where you have to scramble through cracks in fallen rocks to get through to the beach so headed out for a look. The important thing they forgot to tell us is that access is tide dependant. Crawled through as far as we could, all agree that in summer it would be a spectacular place. Climbed the cliff to see if we could get down but only the kids were willing to take the scramble which they did playing on the beach whilst Gordon and I chilled up top.
Our last visit on the Island was to the Sheep dairy quite an experience watching the sheep get milked. The kids were stoked getting to see a whole shed of lambs, with one being brought out for them to pat. They take the lamb from the mother and raise them in a shed as sheep only produce milk for a few months after having a lamb so they are either being milked, out with the rams or pregnant – this goes on for until they are about 12 – not much of a life if you ask me. Had another KI time experience for dinner when we went to go to a place that advertised open every day but Xmas to find it closed, this seemed to be the state of play for most places on KI monday nights, but did manage to find a pizza joint open.
Tried for our last critter experience and went possum spotting that night, drove to several spots that we thought would hold potential to no avail but after giving up found one wandering down the middle of the road much to our delight but his dismay, didn't find any of his friends and he skittled off very quickly.
Despite the horrendous weather we really enjoyed what the island had to offer and very pleased when our trip off occurred in calm seas.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Adelaide
Back off to Whyalla markets in the morning to grab Morgie's scarf before the hop to Adelaide hitting a balmy 22 degrees and sunshine in the city. Staying in a nice park bordered by playground and nature reserve just across the highway from the Botanic gardens and zoo. Had booked into the zoo and to see the Pandas. Not quite sure what to expect but was very pleasantly surprised by the whole zoo and the Pandas. We expected to see black and white lumps laying on rocks but they were quite active, eating and generally moving about their cage. Having the controlled numbers was great as the school kids moved on pretty quickly and the pandas settled down instead of pacing so much. The red pandas were really cute too.
Morgie got to have her photo taken with an orangutan just because she likes them now. Off to Rundell mall for a bit of a stroll and general church experience. We are all quite taken with the city and relative laid back attitude, great food, architecture and parkland that we are planning to come again. We now have a bucket list (well at least to achieve before the kids move out) of places to visit again and things to do there several pages long - just for places we have been on the trip let alone places we would like to go in Australia and my 12 months house swap in Italy. Am giving Tasmania the miss this time round - much to Morgan's dismay (she had hoped to get to every state in Australia) preferring to spend a bit more time in Melbourne and avoiding the bitter cold some parts of Tassie will be offering up this time of year.
Jack is obsessed by models at the moment so managed to drop into the local model shop. After Gordon and Jack had been told NO to spending several thousand dollars on fantasy machines Jack selected a couple of models to take with him. To his disappointment he was only allowed to make one that night - he is a child obsessed once he starts, if only he could apply as much concentration to his homework.
Next day was the tour of Haighs chocolate factory - Gordon kept telling the kids they would be able to dip their fingers in where ever they wanted but as I had advised they weren't allowed within cooey of the chocolate though there were enough free samples handed out to make us feel quite ill. To my surprise the majority of the smaller chocolates are all hand dipped and any texture is hand applied. It is mighty fine chocolate and makes Cadbury taste pretty bad so didn't let the kids get too much of a taste for it.
Off to the markets after that to stock up for the week ahead - again food heaven though managed to restrain ourselves. Very happy to be able to get good quality fruit and veggies again - we are having a bit of a fruit and veg fest after the scarcity in the first six weeks.
Off to experience China town tonight before doing another wet pack up - it has just started spitting - and head off to Cape Jervis.
Morgie got to have her photo taken with an orangutan just because she likes them now. Off to Rundell mall for a bit of a stroll and general church experience. We are all quite taken with the city and relative laid back attitude, great food, architecture and parkland that we are planning to come again. We now have a bucket list (well at least to achieve before the kids move out) of places to visit again and things to do there several pages long - just for places we have been on the trip let alone places we would like to go in Australia and my 12 months house swap in Italy. Am giving Tasmania the miss this time round - much to Morgan's dismay (she had hoped to get to every state in Australia) preferring to spend a bit more time in Melbourne and avoiding the bitter cold some parts of Tassie will be offering up this time of year.
Jack is obsessed by models at the moment so managed to drop into the local model shop. After Gordon and Jack had been told NO to spending several thousand dollars on fantasy machines Jack selected a couple of models to take with him. To his disappointment he was only allowed to make one that night - he is a child obsessed once he starts, if only he could apply as much concentration to his homework.
Next day was the tour of Haighs chocolate factory - Gordon kept telling the kids they would be able to dip their fingers in where ever they wanted but as I had advised they weren't allowed within cooey of the chocolate though there were enough free samples handed out to make us feel quite ill. To my surprise the majority of the smaller chocolates are all hand dipped and any texture is hand applied. It is mighty fine chocolate and makes Cadbury taste pretty bad so didn't let the kids get too much of a taste for it.
Off to the markets after that to stock up for the week ahead - again food heaven though managed to restrain ourselves. Very happy to be able to get good quality fruit and veggies again - we are having a bit of a fruit and veg fest after the scarcity in the first six weeks.
Off to experience China town tonight before doing another wet pack up - it has just started spitting - and head off to Cape Jervis.
Saturday, August 28, 2010
Whyalla
The morning promised another cold and wet day with even the poor kangaroos looking decidedly soaked. Packed up in a thankful lull in the rain and sloshed our way south to Port Augusta to visit the bakery and head south for Whyalla. Decided to use this as a base to explore the Eyre Peninsula. Driving into Whyalla was a bit surreal, could have been driving into Port Kembla, swear they had the same town planner and architects, including smoke stacks and steel works. Booked into a small caravan park on the beach but didn't take up one of the shore front sites as there was a gale warning for all coastal regions, electing to take a site with some protection from the cabins. The storm front thankfully did not eventuate though it tried hard and stayed overcast for our stay. The kids immediately got lost on the gigantic jumping mat, bit like a giant trampoline at ground level kept afloat by air compressor.
Whyalla has spent a lot of time trying to clean up the area with BHP touting many environmental projects and several tourist initiatives along the foreshore, including a very good restaurant on the esplanade with a gigantic playground next to it. Made for a very pleasant lunch on Friday.
Off to the steel works tour, which is basically a bus ride around the plant with commentary from the driver, Jack marvelled at the gigantic machinery, got to see coke being pored and the slag dump but the steel rollers were not running due to a fault so missed out on them. Did the tour of the Whyalla - the first steel ship built here - a mine sweeper, again Jack heaven with all guns still in place, though Morgie enjoyed startling all the golfers on the adjacent course by repeatedly sounding the ship's horn.
Jack has been nagging about a model to build all holidays so did a quick trip to Toys are evil to grab him one. He has completed it in less than 24 hours with him only calling halt as we threatened to drive off without him to do thing.
Visited the indoor leisure centre in the afternoon for the kids to burn off a bit of energy in the heated pool. Bit disappointed that the water slide wasn't working but they managed to kill 2 hours whilst I supervised behind a book.
Found a drive in bottle and bird shop, attached to the local pub - (not what you are thinking) - join one que to get your grog then go around and join the next for your take out. Couldn't believe the que for the food outlet, went out the car park and down the street at 8 on Friday night. I actually parked the car and went in to order - great Yiros, couldn't believe the amount of orders they were pumping out - doing phone order as well. Definitely a licence to print money but mighty hard work as well, the poor behind the grill didn't stop running for the brief time I was there, and they had 4 vats just for chips going.
Have done a bit of sorting and am sending home a bag of stuff we don't need with us but want to keep. Whyalla boasts the largest regional shopping centre in South Australia but it makes Shell Harbour look like a megalopolis. Went to post it Saturday morning, but enquiries were met by an incredulous response of "post offices don't open Saturdays". At 945 could have driven down the main street like a maniac, even mounting the curb and not risked hitting anyone - it is like a ghost town.
The big thing in town for Saturday (but not before 1000) was the craft markets - so off we went with plans to dump and run if it was a bit of no go. It is the old steel works quarters set up with permanent craft guilds from wood work, jewelry, cakes, quilting, weaving and all handicrafts. They have some amazing items including a pair of slippers non of us could work out, tissue box covers that confound all design and the piece de resistance being a fly can cover knitted with face, arms and legs and woolly hair, think I insulted the ladies when my response to Jack's can we have one was "get a life" - he did think it was a cover for a coffee cup to keep your drink warm. Basically they open once a month to have a work fest and sell their excess, some things were quite poor quality but also managed to pick up some lovely pieces for Christmas presents that will be quite unique.
Morgie purchased herself a hand knitted beanie and a woven scarf all from hand spun wool, Jack continued to promote his image and bought a black balaclava, Gordon surprised me with a lovely necklace and I can't mention other items in case the wrong person is reading. Morgie also hand died herself a silk scarf which we need to remember to pick up tomorrow when it is dry.
The general food was abysmal with poor instant coffee and dodgy bacon rolls the best on offer but cakes and sweets, butterfly cakes and profiteroles to drool at, managed to limit it to a few baby toffees and Anzac biscuits, though may have to grab some on the road treats when I pop in for Morgie's scarf tomorrow.
This took up a surprising amount of the day so only managed to pop out to Iron Knob - the actual name of the town where they mined the iron ore till late 90s for the steel mill. The advertised information bureau and tours were not evident so did a quick look around town - great commando course but this was all locked up and humorous public toilet but that proved the highlight so headed back to the wetlands in Whyalla for a bit of a stroll.
The kids want to go to the zoo to see the Pandas and to Haigh's chocolate factory so aborting our plans to swim with the seals and cuttle fish - the water is only 12 degrees to head off to Adelaide - our final stop before Kangaroo Island.
Whyalla has spent a lot of time trying to clean up the area with BHP touting many environmental projects and several tourist initiatives along the foreshore, including a very good restaurant on the esplanade with a gigantic playground next to it. Made for a very pleasant lunch on Friday.
Off to the steel works tour, which is basically a bus ride around the plant with commentary from the driver, Jack marvelled at the gigantic machinery, got to see coke being pored and the slag dump but the steel rollers were not running due to a fault so missed out on them. Did the tour of the Whyalla - the first steel ship built here - a mine sweeper, again Jack heaven with all guns still in place, though Morgie enjoyed startling all the golfers on the adjacent course by repeatedly sounding the ship's horn.
Jack has been nagging about a model to build all holidays so did a quick trip to Toys are evil to grab him one. He has completed it in less than 24 hours with him only calling halt as we threatened to drive off without him to do thing.
Visited the indoor leisure centre in the afternoon for the kids to burn off a bit of energy in the heated pool. Bit disappointed that the water slide wasn't working but they managed to kill 2 hours whilst I supervised behind a book.
Found a drive in bottle and bird shop, attached to the local pub - (not what you are thinking) - join one que to get your grog then go around and join the next for your take out. Couldn't believe the que for the food outlet, went out the car park and down the street at 8 on Friday night. I actually parked the car and went in to order - great Yiros, couldn't believe the amount of orders they were pumping out - doing phone order as well. Definitely a licence to print money but mighty hard work as well, the poor behind the grill didn't stop running for the brief time I was there, and they had 4 vats just for chips going.
Have done a bit of sorting and am sending home a bag of stuff we don't need with us but want to keep. Whyalla boasts the largest regional shopping centre in South Australia but it makes Shell Harbour look like a megalopolis. Went to post it Saturday morning, but enquiries were met by an incredulous response of "post offices don't open Saturdays". At 945 could have driven down the main street like a maniac, even mounting the curb and not risked hitting anyone - it is like a ghost town.
The big thing in town for Saturday (but not before 1000) was the craft markets - so off we went with plans to dump and run if it was a bit of no go. It is the old steel works quarters set up with permanent craft guilds from wood work, jewelry, cakes, quilting, weaving and all handicrafts. They have some amazing items including a pair of slippers non of us could work out, tissue box covers that confound all design and the piece de resistance being a fly can cover knitted with face, arms and legs and woolly hair, think I insulted the ladies when my response to Jack's can we have one was "get a life" - he did think it was a cover for a coffee cup to keep your drink warm. Basically they open once a month to have a work fest and sell their excess, some things were quite poor quality but also managed to pick up some lovely pieces for Christmas presents that will be quite unique.
Morgie purchased herself a hand knitted beanie and a woven scarf all from hand spun wool, Jack continued to promote his image and bought a black balaclava, Gordon surprised me with a lovely necklace and I can't mention other items in case the wrong person is reading. Morgie also hand died herself a silk scarf which we need to remember to pick up tomorrow when it is dry.
The general food was abysmal with poor instant coffee and dodgy bacon rolls the best on offer but cakes and sweets, butterfly cakes and profiteroles to drool at, managed to limit it to a few baby toffees and Anzac biscuits, though may have to grab some on the road treats when I pop in for Morgie's scarf tomorrow.
This took up a surprising amount of the day so only managed to pop out to Iron Knob - the actual name of the town where they mined the iron ore till late 90s for the steel mill. The advertised information bureau and tours were not evident so did a quick look around town - great commando course but this was all locked up and humorous public toilet but that proved the highlight so headed back to the wetlands in Whyalla for a bit of a stroll.
The kids want to go to the zoo to see the Pandas and to Haigh's chocolate factory so aborting our plans to swim with the seals and cuttle fish - the water is only 12 degrees to head off to Adelaide - our final stop before Kangaroo Island.
Wednesday, August 25, 2010
Wilpena Pound
Late into Port Augusta so booked into a Cabin which I was very grateful for. The next day proved to be a very mixed bag, warmer and depending which direction you looked either brilliantly sunny or black and threatening. Headed off to Wilpena Pound up the bitumen as it didn’t look like the Oodnadatta track was opening in the foreseeable future. Couldn’t believe how lush it was, my memory was of dusty and bleak but spectacular hillsides. Went into a small Gorge for lunch which was full of enormous red gums and lush grasses still with the morning dew in them. Such a change in scenery yet again. Morgan and Jack have been playing spy commando games with their camels having them hang from a piece of string and rappel of anything of height so climbing the tree added great new adventures for them.
The next morning saw a commotion outside our van, a Kangaroo had come calling and was intent on getting into our van, really a bit disconcerting as he was quite large, the people next door thankfully came home with some muffins for their breakfast so he decided that was a better option. He stuck round all day on the scrounge. Off for the day to check out the sights of Flinders National Park. Driving out of Wilpena and came across an Emu with 6 chicks by the side of the road, quite splendid. Saw several more sets of chicks and 20 plus adults, they are so healthy with all the fresh feed, quite a contrast to the few we have seen to date. Walked up a small ravine to check out some indigenous rock carvings which the local community attribute to the “makers”. Very splendid with the giant red gums, many of which have split at the butt but kept growing as two trees – splitting up to 2 meters apart at the base, otherwise lots of pine trees which jack has taken to seeing how far they will bend. Heaps of mud puddles which Gordon enjoyed decorating the car with. Had to pass through some fences so Jack our official gate opener stood on the side of the car until Gordon took a puddle a bit too fast and managed to splash mud as far up as his face. Neither Jack nor I were impressed. Heaps of wildlife again with Kangaroos lazing around in the grasses as if we didn’t exist.
Travelled diagonally across the ranges actually driving up the creek bed of a couple of the gorges – this was the road in dry season. Stopped in the bottom of one for lunch against a large dark scree hill which the kids just had to climb.
Wet, wet, wet so cruised around in the car enjoying the magnificent views and losing count of the emus, goats and kangaroos we saw.
The next morning looked a little more promising so Gordon set off for a walk to the peak which affords a view over the whole pound as it is now impossible to drive in. Another morning Kangaroo visit, this time a mum and Joey who was a lot less aggressive. The promise of fine weather did not last long so the kids and I caught the bus up to the old homestead and explored in between showers. You can understand how they convinced themselves it was going to be a farming gold mine here, lush grass everywhere you look. Picked up Gordon who was hiking out as we returned on the bus. He still didn’t get to see the Pound as when he got to the summit there was a white out of cloud. Back to warm up with pancakes for lunch but both Jack and Gordon unable to enjoy an afternoon listening to the rain reading so dragged Morgie off to do some more exploring in the car with the promise to find some more mud though it will just get washed off again. Spectacular place but hard to appreciate fully when so cold and wet. Tomorrow is forecast more of the same so will head south
The next morning saw a commotion outside our van, a Kangaroo had come calling and was intent on getting into our van, really a bit disconcerting as he was quite large, the people next door thankfully came home with some muffins for their breakfast so he decided that was a better option. He stuck round all day on the scrounge. Off for the day to check out the sights of Flinders National Park. Driving out of Wilpena and came across an Emu with 6 chicks by the side of the road, quite splendid. Saw several more sets of chicks and 20 plus adults, they are so healthy with all the fresh feed, quite a contrast to the few we have seen to date. Walked up a small ravine to check out some indigenous rock carvings which the local community attribute to the “makers”. Very splendid with the giant red gums, many of which have split at the butt but kept growing as two trees – splitting up to 2 meters apart at the base, otherwise lots of pine trees which jack has taken to seeing how far they will bend. Heaps of mud puddles which Gordon enjoyed decorating the car with. Had to pass through some fences so Jack our official gate opener stood on the side of the car until Gordon took a puddle a bit too fast and managed to splash mud as far up as his face. Neither Jack nor I were impressed. Heaps of wildlife again with Kangaroos lazing around in the grasses as if we didn’t exist.
Travelled diagonally across the ranges actually driving up the creek bed of a couple of the gorges – this was the road in dry season. Stopped in the bottom of one for lunch against a large dark scree hill which the kids just had to climb.
Wet, wet, wet so cruised around in the car enjoying the magnificent views and losing count of the emus, goats and kangaroos we saw.
The next morning looked a little more promising so Gordon set off for a walk to the peak which affords a view over the whole pound as it is now impossible to drive in. Another morning Kangaroo visit, this time a mum and Joey who was a lot less aggressive. The promise of fine weather did not last long so the kids and I caught the bus up to the old homestead and explored in between showers. You can understand how they convinced themselves it was going to be a farming gold mine here, lush grass everywhere you look. Picked up Gordon who was hiking out as we returned on the bus. He still didn’t get to see the Pound as when he got to the summit there was a white out of cloud. Back to warm up with pancakes for lunch but both Jack and Gordon unable to enjoy an afternoon listening to the rain reading so dragged Morgie off to do some more exploring in the car with the promise to find some more mud though it will just get washed off again. Spectacular place but hard to appreciate fully when so cold and wet. Tomorrow is forecast more of the same so will head south
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Woomera
Set off after the tour to push our way through the rain south. All of 11 degrees on the road, didn’t matter what attractions there were you couldn’t see more than 20 m in any direction. This and the poky scrub reminded me of driving in Scotland.. Got to the shores of Lake Hart which is surprisingly immense, the fog lifted and there was a 2 degree rise in temp but the landscape flattened out to grasses in greens from lime to almost black with occasional red dabs but nothing above 30cm. The dog fence was the tallest thing for as far as the eye could see. Called into Woomera after an extended wait for the freight train to go through – they are just babies at home. These even have the shipping containers stacked double. Woomera is a surprisingly large community that proved to be a little boy’s delight with literally paddocks of rockets’, missiles, launchers, planes, guidance systems and so on, but it is the only town that would advertise it has a dentist/vet – that is literally how it was sign posted on their directory. Being Sunday all the inside exhibits were closed so inspected what we could before heading south again hoping but not managing to drive out of the rain.
Coober Pedy
Headed off for more of the same as far as the landscape goes but just for an election special they threw in a bit of water in the dams, very large cows meandering down the road and a fleet of road trains. Saturday seems to be their “load them up and ship them out day.”
I have some level of concern I am bringing home a new age Genghis Khan. Jack has once more added to his arsenal and has fashioned a num chucker from a spark plug lead. Wouldn’t let him touch the bit of Agg pipe when the “can I have this?” was followed by questions about pipe bombs. He now has 2 knives, 1 tomahawk – which he sharpens regularly – a new skill from Pampa, at least 3 spears, though there may be more he has secreted and 3 whips – one of which he can actually get to crack - all self made. He does appreciate how much they hurt having caught himself on the cheek, he thankfully had sunnies on. I was persona non gratis for a while after one of his spears blew off the roof; I hadn’t tied it down well enough or noticed when it flew off. He is currently researching making a spear thrower.
The cruise control failed again this morning after 10kms – some wiring fault but Gordon is spitting chips as it works fine each time I have used it so we are heading into the oncoming wind with no luxuries.
Booked into the underground motel which was a real treat, had organized to have parking for the van which turned out to require a feat in precision reversing that we do not have so ended up pushing the van into spot before risking wiping out 100k plus of other vehicles. Headed off to the old timers mine for a machinery demo and tour. The demo covered both original and modern machinery which was really interesting partly because of the ingenuity. Modern machinery is often cut down versions of coal mining machinery cobbled together from old car trucks and tractor parts. Didn’t get to the tour as Jack was introduced to the noodling pit (searching for tiny pieces in the rubbish) and they spent the rest of the afternoon there searching for treasures. Dragged them out as the sun went down to have a look through a couple of other places. Out to dinner but big night out in Coober Pedy, with the pizza joint going to take up to an hour and the tavern booked out so ended up in the local Chinese – kids really happy but it was the traditional Australianese so Gordon and I classed food as edible rather than good. Woken throughout the night by rain which was pitter pattering on the metal cup of the air shaft to our room. It is very disconcerting in the room as it is so dark you can’t guess the time. Jack even had some glowing spots in the ceiling above his bed. This was the only light in the room. The rain became quite constant and heavy. Morning road condition checks proved depressing. It had rained so much William Creek road was closed and wouldn’t be open for up to 4 days if it stopped ranging NOW, which it didn’t look like doing. Not worth hanging around for that long so will head for Port Augusta and make plans from there. Back down to the Museum for a tour. People had been extending their house when they broke into an old mine shaft, so got to tour the mine plus the house which had not been lived in since the early 90s. They don’t have paintings on the wall but rather framed and lit up naturally occurring opal. In digging a new entry door they found another 50K worth or opal, not bad for lucky strike one morning of renovating. Jack having collected a bottle full of scraps to go through at a later date put this and a bag with a couple of souvenirs behind the desk whilst we did the tour. Sent Jack back to collect them, he got his scraps but not the souvenirs. Didn’t realise this for a few hundred KM, rang from next lot of service to get them posted, they couldn’t have been more helpful organizing postage home. Went to give credit card to cover the cost and their attitude was “don’t worry we’ll sort it”. This has been the attitude for all places in Coober Pedy which is in marked contrast to everywhere else where they are out to gouge every cent from you. Morgie wanted to buy herself a necklace, had set a budget of $30 – told the lady this but she spied a piece she liked at about $40, whilst she was umming and arghing about the change in budget the owner walked up and reduced it to $30 – small bickies for them when the majority are thousands but nothing we have experienced anywhere else.
I have some level of concern I am bringing home a new age Genghis Khan. Jack has once more added to his arsenal and has fashioned a num chucker from a spark plug lead. Wouldn’t let him touch the bit of Agg pipe when the “can I have this?” was followed by questions about pipe bombs. He now has 2 knives, 1 tomahawk – which he sharpens regularly – a new skill from Pampa, at least 3 spears, though there may be more he has secreted and 3 whips – one of which he can actually get to crack - all self made. He does appreciate how much they hurt having caught himself on the cheek, he thankfully had sunnies on. I was persona non gratis for a while after one of his spears blew off the roof; I hadn’t tied it down well enough or noticed when it flew off. He is currently researching making a spear thrower.
The cruise control failed again this morning after 10kms – some wiring fault but Gordon is spitting chips as it works fine each time I have used it so we are heading into the oncoming wind with no luxuries.
Booked into the underground motel which was a real treat, had organized to have parking for the van which turned out to require a feat in precision reversing that we do not have so ended up pushing the van into spot before risking wiping out 100k plus of other vehicles. Headed off to the old timers mine for a machinery demo and tour. The demo covered both original and modern machinery which was really interesting partly because of the ingenuity. Modern machinery is often cut down versions of coal mining machinery cobbled together from old car trucks and tractor parts. Didn’t get to the tour as Jack was introduced to the noodling pit (searching for tiny pieces in the rubbish) and they spent the rest of the afternoon there searching for treasures. Dragged them out as the sun went down to have a look through a couple of other places. Out to dinner but big night out in Coober Pedy, with the pizza joint going to take up to an hour and the tavern booked out so ended up in the local Chinese – kids really happy but it was the traditional Australianese so Gordon and I classed food as edible rather than good. Woken throughout the night by rain which was pitter pattering on the metal cup of the air shaft to our room. It is very disconcerting in the room as it is so dark you can’t guess the time. Jack even had some glowing spots in the ceiling above his bed. This was the only light in the room. The rain became quite constant and heavy. Morning road condition checks proved depressing. It had rained so much William Creek road was closed and wouldn’t be open for up to 4 days if it stopped ranging NOW, which it didn’t look like doing. Not worth hanging around for that long so will head for Port Augusta and make plans from there. Back down to the Museum for a tour. People had been extending their house when they broke into an old mine shaft, so got to tour the mine plus the house which had not been lived in since the early 90s. They don’t have paintings on the wall but rather framed and lit up naturally occurring opal. In digging a new entry door they found another 50K worth or opal, not bad for lucky strike one morning of renovating. Jack having collected a bottle full of scraps to go through at a later date put this and a bag with a couple of souvenirs behind the desk whilst we did the tour. Sent Jack back to collect them, he got his scraps but not the souvenirs. Didn’t realise this for a few hundred KM, rang from next lot of service to get them posted, they couldn’t have been more helpful organizing postage home. Went to give credit card to cover the cost and their attitude was “don’t worry we’ll sort it”. This has been the attitude for all places in Coober Pedy which is in marked contrast to everywhere else where they are out to gouge every cent from you. Morgie wanted to buy herself a necklace, had set a budget of $30 – told the lady this but she spied a piece she liked at about $40, whilst she was umming and arghing about the change in budget the owner walked up and reduced it to $30 – small bickies for them when the majority are thousands but nothing we have experienced anywhere else.
Friday, August 20, 2010
Marla
Headed south getting to Marla which is about 40 km south of the Border, a little blip on the map with a gigantic road house - couldn't believe the business they were doing - in the hour it took for us to have dinner they put out over 50 meals and equal amounts of alcohol - all very reasonable prices. Kids found some old games machines and for under $10 spent another hour entertaining themselves.
Travelling out of Uluru the kids put the DVD player on while we pushed into the headwind. Feel a bit hypocritical letting them watch the DVDs but they are quiet and happy, and we now have the code for look at that or listen to me pretty down pat. The argument of look out of the window see all the new things you are going past proved a bit difficult to put forward when Gordon and I started playing eye spy - tree, road, car, sand, road, truck, sign post, dead tree. You had to wait 2 hours to be able to say hill, the landscape is so flat and same0 same0, but you need to get the Ks under your belt to get somewhere else. At the border saw a van called the Erin Mark II so had to get a photo.
Travelling out of Uluru the kids put the DVD player on while we pushed into the headwind. Feel a bit hypocritical letting them watch the DVDs but they are quiet and happy, and we now have the code for look at that or listen to me pretty down pat. The argument of look out of the window see all the new things you are going past proved a bit difficult to put forward when Gordon and I started playing eye spy - tree, road, car, sand, road, truck, sign post, dead tree. You had to wait 2 hours to be able to say hill, the landscape is so flat and same0 same0, but you need to get the Ks under your belt to get somewhere else. At the border saw a van called the Erin Mark II so had to get a photo.
Kids have been writing a story about their camels sort of scifi starwars meets Robin hood so they have been amused in the car.
Uluru
Packed up with intention of doing rim walk this morning but advised not to take the kids up with forecast of further rain and increasing wind so settled for another walk along the creek bed which is really spectacular in itself. There was actually a couple of small pools of water this morning.Didn't appreciate how windy it was till back on the road finding ourselves quite badly buffeted by the winds coming at 45 degrees to the rear - at least should help with fuel economy. Though all gains went out the window when we turned west again for it to become a direct headwind.Stopped at virgin springs near mt Conner for fuel -back up to 199.9 ltr and general commercial pie and small chips $16 please. Basic burger takeaway $22. Nice if you cam get away with it.Wind and cloud cover continue down here so doesn't look like we will climb the rock either.Had Forgotten how big it was, did the compulsory sunset photos which weren't as spectacular as they could have been due to the cloud cover. Had thought Uluru would have been a let down after the bungle bungles but it's enormity holds it in it's own stead. Did the ranger guided walk around the base which the kids really enjoyed and after she explained the risks and negative aspects of the climb in quite graphic detail the kids were happy to just walk around the bottom. There was apparently a death on the rock just a couple of weeks ago. And because there are so many people using the top of the rock as an open air toilet several of the local water holes are so contaminated that they cannot be used and one of the local swimming holes has had to be closed because of the outbreak of gastro, eye and ear infections occurring after swimming. Out to the Olgas which again are just massive and spectacular in their own right. Kids a bit over looking at rocks so spent afternoon playing in the park with other kids while I fumed and spat chips at the Telstra call centre for disconnecting me and giving me the general run around - the mobile internet had failed. They just didn't get that I couldn't go to my local Telstra shop. Grabbed a new SIM card from the post office and got on line in Mala which you may all note proved successful.
Kings Canyon
Left Alice springs after posting some photo discs and Erin birthday card. Happy birthday for Thursday. Alice is a town shoehorned into the surrounding mountains. Headed through some sand dune country to grassy scrub with rocky hills jutting from it. The kids checked out the emus and roos while we fueled up before hitting the dirt again. The grader had been through since the last wet so after a quick inspection of Henbury crater scooted our way across the grass lands under a rain laden sky to the bitumen frequently slowing and beeping the horn for massive flocks of budgies sand bathing in the middle of the road. Things were a little unsettled in the back with the departure of Anne so Morgie cuddled into her spot and stacked some much needed zeds. Love the attitude to road works out here - oh I need something to fill this washout with - oh it's alright I'll wack the side out of that sand dune or what's the deepest spot? Let's make it all that deep - some times you are literally driving down a tunnel with only the tops of trees visible over the side like a very bumpy luge run. Back on the bitumen to follow the mountain range in. Not dissimilar to the blue mountains in winter especially with the overcast sky and wind just ignore the balmy 27 degrees.Rocked up to wind alert of 90 km/h so battened down tight and went for walk up the canyon floor very different to canyons on Gibb with really big white gums and heaps of flowering shrubs. It is literally a walk down the creek bed so kids clambering over giant boulders and climbing large washed over trees generally having a ball. Back on the general tourist circuit much to the delight of the kids who found some playmates. Back at van kids went for swim before dinner, temp more stable with less than 10 degrees difference between day and night temps though wind chill quite considerable. Thought we had lost Jack when he went for a quick rinse off after the swim. 20 min later he wasn't back, the search found him in bliss still under the shower totally oblivious to time. Caught up on some reading keeping out of the wind. The night saw the wind drop but the rain start. Thankfully it stopped raining early enough for the raising wind to dry the van before pack up.
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